I use ratios most often when figuring my gearing and as well when talking to people about choosing their gear combos. Yes, there are more inclusive calculations which are certainly handier for figuring more accurately how your set-up will feel, but for the most part all these calculations are designed for comparative purposes, and, since the ring and cog teeth are the basis for all the other calculations, they work well for the simple purpose of comparing one combo against another. But ratio is very useful and we Surly folk use ratios all the time when talking to people about gear set-up. Thing is, that ratio became the norm when trail bikes all had 26” wheels, not to mention that ratios are good for comparative purposes but are not really all that comprehensive…they don’t take into account wheel size, which of course has a profound affect on how easy or hard a wheel turns. The 2:1 ratio came about in large part because it is a good middle-of-the-road (no pun intended) gearing for a 26” wheeled off-road bike, and remains a good starting point for figuring out what will work best for you. Higher ratios make pedaling harder going up hills, but increase your cruising speed with less spinning of the crank. Lower ratio equals easier pedaling (assuming you’re comparing ratios on the same size wheel each time), good for hills and slow technical sections. ![]() A 32/18 gearing yields a 1.78:1 ratio, and you guessed it: one complete revolution of the crank turns the rear wheel 1.78 times. The basic idea here is that for each revolution of the crank on a 2:1 geared bike, the rear wheel will rotate 2 times. The starting point for most folks, and possibly the most commonly thrown-about catch phrase in single speeding, is 2:1, which refers to a common gearing ratio, or in other words a gear combo wherein the chain ring (front gear) has twice as many teeth as the cog (rear gear), 32/16 being a very common variation. Some of you will find it a boring rehash for you, go read another spewor go for a ride until you find something meaningful. This spew will not try to answer directly the question what gear is right, but instead give you a beginner’s lesson on figuring gear ratios and their assorted relatives. Riding mostly flatland singletrack is a lot different from riding mountain trails, for example. Well Billy, there is no straight answer to this question, as every bike and rider is different, and terrain varies widely from area to area. Yes, single speeds simplify things, in that there are fewer moving parts to get snagged or go out of adjustment, but the finer points of each type of drive train require special consideration, from chain line to chain ring bolts to the best cog or chain to use but perhaps no question gets asked more than “What gear combo is right for me?” Raw has no coating.Since the reinvention of the wheel -that is, since single speeding came back into vogue, after having been relegated to kids’ bike status for decades- there has been a lot of discussion about set-up of single speeds. Dont worry Purple will still be purple and black will still be black. If looking to use on your trials bike then we would suggest our 3/32" width cogs for extra strength.Ĭolours and finish may vary to what is shown on screen. This is by no means hard set, just a little advice. If you are over 100kg/220lbs then a general rule is to use steel cogs instead. ![]() Material: CNC machined 7075 T6 aluminium - Long lasting construction Tooth width optimized for 1X, 6/7/8/9/10/11/ 12spd chains Please note not all free hubs are designed equal with varying tolerances. Perfectly at home on a BMX race bike, Single Speeds, MTB’s or a Dirty Jump/Street bike.ĭesigned to work with Shimano-type free hubs. Available in a wide range of sizes to fit different riders styles and uses. ![]() A 6mm wide base is used to reduce the damage caused to aluminium free hubs while under heavy loads. Designed from the wheel up to fit Shimano-type free hub bodies.
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